The Dictionary Henry
FABRIC WEAVE This is the mode of interlacing of the threads: Weaving. To put it simply, there are 3 main techniques for intersecting the threads, these are the fundamental weaves. The most basic: plain weave, then twill weave (like our Henry denim) and finally satin weave.
GOING FINE It is quite simply the "blockchain" of the garment, integrating the morphotype of the body, the construction and the model making but also, as with Henry, the assembly techniques and the finishes. Result: a product that fits you like a glove.
BLENDS As with teas and spices, fabrics mix different ingredients to develop different performance and visual effects. At Henry, we have favored an eco-responsible approach, with our recycled cotton/elastane blend, for lasting comfort.
CHINOS Originally, they are military trousers, dating from the British colonial era. It was worn by English troops in India and its inventor was Sir Harry (we would have liked Henry 😊…) Lumsden in 1846. The first models were “Khaki” (dust in Indian). It was at the beginning of the 20th century that the word Chino appeared, a neologism referring to Chinese merchants selling their pants to American soldiers based in the Philippines.
ENGLISH COAST It is a reversible knit stitch, identical on the front and back, therefore using more wool and providing good resistance to the knit. This stitch was traditionally used for British Navy pullovers, is used today on Henry beanies.
2X2 SIDE Knitting simply alternating two knit stitches and two purl stitches, bringing flexibility, resistance and reversibility to the knit. To fully understand, wrap yourself in our Henry scarf...
CREW-NECK "Round collar" in American. Therme dating back to the creation of the first US sweatshirts, evoking the idea of the "Crew", in this case, American university sports "team".
DENIM The word Denim comes from the contraction of "sergé de Nîmes": cotton fabric with a serge weave woven in Nîmes from 1577... The "De Nîmes" was then exported throughout the Mediterranean basin and throughout Europe before leaving for the United States via Genoa, the legend was on the move…
RAW DENIM It is the original "raw" version of the denim twill fabric. The Indigo dyeing of the threads is not altered by any treatment or washing, it is the authentic denim par excellence, to discover by slipping on our 5 Henry selvedge pockets. The patina of time will make it a unique product.
FLOCKING It is a printing technique which consists of depositing very fine fibers on a support. The flocking of our sweatshirts, due to its high density, gives an incomparable velvet appearance, directly inspired by the first models on American campuses.
GANSED It's a “tailored” finish found on quality clothing and pants, like our Henry Chinos. It is a ribbon or "bias" folded in half which is stitched and which covers the interior seams of the product, thus providing comfort, robustness and a graphic touch.
INDIGO Indigo is a purplish blue coloring matter extracted from the leaves and stems of the indigo tree or pastel or even gara...Transformed into pigment, it has been used to dye clothes for 6000 years...Japanese indigo used in dyeing denim is particularly famous, at Henry we call it “blue gold”…
JACRON It is the signature label of the jeans. The genuine or more generally recycled leather label found on the back of the waistband of the jeans. It is part of the branding and takes up the codes of the brand. It is a generic term that appeared in the 80's with the invention of a technique of imitation leather to replace the leather labels of jeans brands.
JEANS The first “Nîmes” fabrics departing from the port of Genoa in Italy, bound for Manchester, then the United States, generated by extension the name of the most iconic pants in the world. We then spoke of “merchant of Jeane” (merchant of Genoa). The Genoese navy equipped the sails of its ships and its sailors with blue canvas called "Genoese blue" or "Jeane". History did the rest...
SHUTTLE LOOM A shuttle is an element of a loom which is thrown or slid between the warp threads in order to pass the weft thread through it to carry out the weaving. Originally, the shuttles were made of Blood Dogwood (very hard wood, with a very soft finish).
oz It is an Anglo-Saxon unit of weight: 1oz (1 ounce = approximately 28.4gr). It is the reference unit in the denim industry to quantify the weight of the fabric. Knowing that the weight of our 5-pocket jeans is 14.50 OZ/m2: good luck calculating the weight of the pants!
EAR-PHONE POCKET Small piped pocket, almost invisible, placed at the level of the left pocket of our Chino Daily. You can slip your earphones in there safely.
FOB POCKET Originally, the fob pocket was a small pocket of the suit waistcoat protecting the “fob” of the watch of the same name. At Henry, we have applied it to our Heritage and Selvedge Chinos, as a signature detail.
AMF ITEM It is a sewing stitch inherited from Henry's trouser know-how. These topstitching stitches are done by hand or by machine. The AMF stitch is aesthetic but above all it allows you to finish the edges of your Chino Henry with elegance and robustness. The name AMF comes from the machine that produces them.
BREAKPOINT As its name suggests, the stopping point is used to stop the thread of a seam, it helps to reinforce the solidity of the pockets, the fly or the loops of our pants. It comes in different shapes: straight points, half-moon, triangle...
MERINO This is the top of the mutton! With abundant wool, white and soft. Our Henry scarves and hats are knitted in extra-fine Merino wool produced in Italy. Merino is a high-performance fiber that combines warmth, breathability and resistance.
BELT RISER A riser is an assembly of a piece of fabric, placed at the level of the inner waistband of the pants. Directly derived from the tailoring tradition, it is a sartorial finish. It provides incomparable comfort and reveals the inner beauty of our Selvedge and Heritage Chinos, with its contrasting red stitches and chevron weave.
POCKET BAG Two pieces of fabric, assembled and sewn on the inside of the pants, to form the pocket. At Henry, our pocket bags are made of cotton weave, beautiful and strong, they have been cared for as if they were visible on the outside. They are printed with all the information relating to your pants, like a product ID card.
SASTRERIA This is the tailor's shop in Spanish. Mecca of clothing, sewing and know-how. The most prestigious were in Barcelona. That's where it all began…
SELVEDGE Basically, it is the contraction of the English "self-edge", shortened for "self-finished-edge" meaning in French "finished edge". More precisely, it is the uniform finish of the fabric at its end aimed at preventing it from fraying. At Henry, the Selvedge is reinforced and forms a red and white border, running the length of the fabric on both sides, from the inside of your denim. Do not hesitate to highlight it!
TAB Literally: it is a tongue. In textiles, the Tab is the small colored label that was attached to the back pocket of jeans, by extension, it has become a generic word for all the small "flying" stickers placed on the pants. At Henry, our Tab is made of recycled leather. It is placed on our Chinos, with two points of red thread, as a style signature.