Henry's Dictionary

FABRIC WEAVE

This is the method of interweaving the threads: Weaving. To put it simply, there are 3 main techniques for crisscrossing wires, these are the fundamental weaves. The most basic: plain weave then twill weave (like our Henry denim) and finally satin weave.

GOING FINE

It is quite simply the “blockchain” of clothing, integrating body morphotype, construction and pattern making but also, as with Henry, assembly techniques and finishes. Result: a product that fits you like a glove.

BLENDS

As with teas and spices, fabrics mix different ingredients to develop different performances and visual effects. At Henry, we have favored an eco-responsible approach, with our recycled cotton/elastane blend, for lasting comfort.

CHINOS

Originally, they are military pants, dating from the British colonial era. It is worn by the English troops in India and its inventor is Sir Harry (we would have liked Henry 😊…) Lumsden in 1846. The first models are “Khaki” (dust in Indian). It was at the beginning of the 20th century that the word Chino appeared, a neologism referring to Chinese merchants selling their pants to American soldiers based in the Philippines.

ENGLISH COAST

It is a reversible knitting stitch, identical on the right side and the wrong side, therefore using more wool and providing good resistance to the knitting. This stitch was traditionally used for British Navy pullovers, is used today on Henry hats.

2X2 RIB

Knitting simply alternating two knit stitches and two purl stitches, providing flexibility, resistance and reversibility to the knitting. To fully understand, wrap yourself in our Henry scarf…

CREW-NECK

“Round collar” in American. Theme dating back to the creation of the first US sweatshirts, evoking the idea of ​​the “Crew”, in this case, a sports “team” of American universities.

DENIM

The word Denim comes from the contraction of “Twill of Nîmes”: cotton fabric with twill weave woven in Nîmes from 1577… “De Nîmes” was then exported throughout the Mediterranean basin and throughout Europe before leaving for the United States via Genoa, the legend was in progress…

RAW DENIM

This is the original “raw” version of denim twill fabric. The Indigo dyeing of the yarns is not altered by any treatment or washing, it is the authentic denim par excellence, to be discovered by putting on our Henry 5-pocket selvedge. The patina of time will make it a unique product.

FLOCKING

It is a printing technique which consists of depositing very fine fibers on a support. The flocking of our sweatshirts, due to its high density, gives an incomparable velvet appearance, directly inspired by the first models on American campuses.

GANSÉ

It is a “tailored” finish that is found on quality clothing and pants, such as on our Henry Chinos. It is a ribbon or “bias” folded in two which is stitched and which covers the interior seams of the product, thus providing comfort, robustness and a graphic touch.

INDIGO

Indigo is a purplish blue coloring material extracted from the leaves and stems of the indigo tree or woad or even gara...Transformed into pigment, it has been used to dye clothes for 6000 years...Japanese indigo used in dyeing denim is particularly famous, at Henry we call it “blue gold”…

JACRON

This is the signature label of jeans. The genuine or more generally recycled leather label found on the back of the jeans belt. It is part of the branding and incorporates the brand codes. It's a generic term that appeared in the 80's with the invention of an imitation leather technique to replace the leather labels of jeans brands.

JEANS

The first “Nîmes” fabrics leaving the port of Genoa in Italy, bound for Manchester, then the United States, generated by extension the name of the most iconic pants in the world. We then spoke of “merchant of Jeane” (merchant of Genoa). The Genoese navy equipped the sails of its ships and its sailors with blue canvas called “Genesian blue” or “Jeane”. History does the rest...

RAGLAN SLEEVE

The Raglan sleeve is a sleeve set up and sewn diagonally, going from the armpit to the collarbone. This type of montage was born from a historical fact: In 1815, after the Battle of Waterloo, Fitzroy officer James Henry Somerset, better known as Lord Raglan, lost an arm! He then had the idea, with the venerable Maison Aquascutum, producer of coats, of a sleeve assembly system which allows easy donning of the garment as well as ease in handling the sword in combat. The Raglan sleeve was born…

WEAVING LOM SHUTTLE

A shuttle is a loom element which is thrown or slipped between the warp threads in order to pass the weft thread to carry out the weaving. Originally, the shuttles were made of Dogwood Sanguine wood (very hard wood, with a very soft finish).

O.Z.

It is an Anglo-Saxon unit of weight: 1oz (1 ounce = approximately 28.4g). It is the reference unit in the denim industry for quantifying fabric weight. Knowing that the weight of our 5-pocket jeans is 14.50 OZ/m2: good luck calculating the weight of the pants!

EAR-PHONE POCKET

Small piped pocket, almost invisible, placed at the left pocket of our Daily Chino. You can slide your headphones in safely.

FOB POCKET

Originally, the gusset pocket was a small pocket in the suit vest protecting the “gusset” of the watch of the same name. At Henry we have used it on our Heritage and Selvedge Chinos, as a signature detail.

AMF POINT

It is a sewing stitch inherited from Henry's trouser-making know-how. These topstitch stitches are done by hand or machine. The AMF stitch is aesthetic but above all it allows you to finish the edges of your Henry Chino with elegance and robustness. The name AMF comes from the machine that produces them.

BREAKPOINT

As its name suggests, the bartack is used to stop the thread of a seam, it helps to reinforce the strength of the pockets, the fly or the loops of our pants. It comes in different shapes: straight stitches, half-moon, triangle, etc.

MERINO

It's the best of sheep! With abundant, white and soft wool. Our Henry scarves and hats are knitted from extra-fine Merino wool produced in Italy. Merino is a high-performance fiber, which combines warmth, breathability and resistance.

BELT INCREASE

A riser is an assembly of a piece of fabric, placed at the level of the inner waistband of the pants. Directly from the tailoring tradition, it is a sartorial finish. It provides incomparable comfort and reveals the inner beauty of our Selvedge and Heritage Chinos, with its red contrasting stitches and chevron weave.

POCKET BAG

Two pieces of fabric, assembled and sewn on the inside of the pants, to form the pocket. At Henry, our pocket bags are made of weaved cotton, beautiful and solid, they have been taken care of as if they were visible on the outside. They are printed with all the information relating to your pants, such as a product ID card.

SASTERRIA

This is the tailor's shop in Spanish. Mecca of tailoring, sewing and know-how. The most prestigious were in Barcelona. That's where it all began…

SELVEDGE

Basically, it is the contraction of the English “self-edge”, short for “self-finished-edge” meaning in French “finite edge”. More precisely, it is the uniform finish of the fabric at its end to prevent it from fraying. At Henry, the Selvedge is reinforced and forms a red and white border, running the length of the fabric on both sides, from the inside of your denim. Don’t hesitate to highlight it!

TAB

Literally: it's a tab. In textiles, the Tab is the small colored label which was attached to the back pocket of jeans, by extension, it has become a generic word for all the small “flying” stickers placed on pants. At Henry, our Tab is made from recycled leather. It is placed on our Chinos, with two points of red thread, as a style signature.